Hello,
And very best wishes for the holy month of Ramadan, which starts at sunset today. For those of you unfamiliar, this is a period of fasting that is meant to remind us of our blessings and increase our empathy for the poor. From sunrise to sunset there is no eating, no drinking, no smoking and aversion from entertainments (cinemas are closed for example). Exceptions are allowed for children and old people, so at this time of year I’m sure to remind people of my age; something that is ordinarily a closely guarded secret. Because of the heat, by mid-afternoon my friends will look very tired and uncomfortable but I respect their piety. Late next month this will end with Eid, three days of celebration including gifts of money and food to the poor.
Shakeel and I decided to get in a trip to the beach while he could eat and drink (water and juice only, of course) so we flew down to Karachi for a long weekend. It was as crowded and chaotic as ever but we had a few nice meals and visited some of the historic sites that I had been wanting to see. This included Muhammad Ali Jinnah’s (the father of Pakistan) house and memorial. I had seen Mazar-e-Quaid, his mausoleum, from a distance in the course of various travels in Karachi. However, it turns out it is set far back from the road and is much bigger than I realized. The walk across the plaza to the monument itself on a hot afternoon is quite an experience as the white marble intensifies the power of the sun. It is an elegant design with grand arches in a typical Moorish style. We arrived just as the honor guard was changing, an impressive ceremony of marching soldiers and intricate movements of weapons. His sarcophagus sits above ground in the center of the dome, which is in turn at the center of a grand plaza. Sadly, he only lived a few years after the birth of Pakistan, but what a great legacy to have achieved.
Below I am seated on the plaza in front of Mazar-e-Quaid as the bright, hot sun reflects off my very white forehead.
And very best wishes for the holy month of Ramadan, which starts at sunset today. For those of you unfamiliar, this is a period of fasting that is meant to remind us of our blessings and increase our empathy for the poor. From sunrise to sunset there is no eating, no drinking, no smoking and aversion from entertainments (cinemas are closed for example). Exceptions are allowed for children and old people, so at this time of year I’m sure to remind people of my age; something that is ordinarily a closely guarded secret. Because of the heat, by mid-afternoon my friends will look very tired and uncomfortable but I respect their piety. Late next month this will end with Eid, three days of celebration including gifts of money and food to the poor.
Shakeel and I decided to get in a trip to the beach while he could eat and drink (water and juice only, of course) so we flew down to Karachi for a long weekend. It was as crowded and chaotic as ever but we had a few nice meals and visited some of the historic sites that I had been wanting to see. This included Muhammad Ali Jinnah’s (the father of Pakistan) house and memorial. I had seen Mazar-e-Quaid, his mausoleum, from a distance in the course of various travels in Karachi. However, it turns out it is set far back from the road and is much bigger than I realized. The walk across the plaza to the monument itself on a hot afternoon is quite an experience as the white marble intensifies the power of the sun. It is an elegant design with grand arches in a typical Moorish style. We arrived just as the honor guard was changing, an impressive ceremony of marching soldiers and intricate movements of weapons. His sarcophagus sits above ground in the center of the dome, which is in turn at the center of a grand plaza. Sadly, he only lived a few years after the birth of Pakistan, but what a great legacy to have achieved.
Below I am seated on the plaza in front of Mazar-e-Quaid as the bright, hot sun reflects off my very white forehead.
Earlier we toured the Mohatta Palace Museum, which had great exhibitions of textiles, coins and maps (and is conveniently located near the beach). The Indus River basin (which reaches the Arabian Sea at Karachi) is home to one of the world’s oldest civilizations. It is fascinating to see coins and map reproductions from the earliest days. Karachi has its share of glass and steel office towers, but not very far upriver you can see people living in the timeless manner of daily routines tied to the sun, the rivers and the crops.
Apropos of that scene, a friend of mine told me that most people in the villages don’t read a newspaper, don’t have television, may not even know the name of the Prime Minister (Nawaz Sharif) and go to bed when the sun sets. He is from such a village, expects that his Mom will soon select his wife from there and that she is likely to stay there upon marriage while he works in Islamabad. Timeless.
By four o’clock the heat had just become too much, and maybe we were cultured out, so Shakeel and I retreated to the hotel. It was such a pleasure to cool off in the pool and here we are happy and comfortable but still the sun is reflecting off my very pale forehead. As you may imagine, by morning it was more red than pale; the price you pay for an outdoor lifestyle.
Apropos of that scene, a friend of mine told me that most people in the villages don’t read a newspaper, don’t have television, may not even know the name of the Prime Minister (Nawaz Sharif) and go to bed when the sun sets. He is from such a village, expects that his Mom will soon select his wife from there and that she is likely to stay there upon marriage while he works in Islamabad. Timeless.
By four o’clock the heat had just become too much, and maybe we were cultured out, so Shakeel and I retreated to the hotel. It was such a pleasure to cool off in the pool and here we are happy and comfortable but still the sun is reflecting off my very pale forehead. As you may imagine, by morning it was more red than pale; the price you pay for an outdoor lifestyle.
While Karachi has its charms, it probably doesn’t justify a long-haul flight to visit. For us “locals” it’s just a two-hour flight so a nice weekend escape. Lahore on the other hand is a fascinating and beautiful city with a much longer history, so if you have the opportunity, give it a try.
In addition to Ramadan, this weekend also marks Memorial Day, the unofficial start of summer in the US. So, I hope you all have beach, mountain, pool or barbecue plans. Life is short so enjoy yourselves and cherish your friends and family,
In addition to Ramadan, this weekend also marks Memorial Day, the unofficial start of summer in the US. So, I hope you all have beach, mountain, pool or barbecue plans. Life is short so enjoy yourselves and cherish your friends and family,
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